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Hindu Kush Adventure September 28th to October 13th 2006
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Day 1 Left London in the evening for the overnight flight to Islamabad
Day 2 Arrived early in the morning and drove along the Grand Trunk Road to Peshawar. We stopped at Attock Bridge to see Akbar's Fort before arriving at the Khan Klub in Peshawar. After lunch we visited the bazaar and the Mahabat Khan Mosque for Friday Prayers.
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here or the pictureDay 3 During the morning we visited the Museum, Carpet shop and Book shop while after lunch we visited a Truck Painting Yard. Our evening meal was in an Afghan Restaurant, after which we watched cricket being played in one of Peshawar's main highways.
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Day 4 Leaving early we made our way to the railway station to board the Khyber Steam Safari. The journey past through outlying villages of Peshawar and across the International Airport Runway. After 34 tunnels and over 92 bridges we arrived at Landi Kotal having traveled for four hours. At the Michni Post we were only a few miles from the Durand line forming the Afgan border. After lunch in the Khyber Rifles Officers' Mess we returned to Peshawar.
Day 5 To-day we left for Dir. Traveling northwards we passed through agricultural land before climbing up into the foot hills of the Hindu Kush. Before crossing the Malakand Pass we stopped to view the Gandharean Buddist Monastery at Takht-i-Bhai. After lunch beside the Swat River we crossed the river at Chakdara where we could see Churchill's Picket, where Winston spent a few months in 1896. We arrived in Dir in the late afternoon.
Day 6 In Dir we met the Jeeps which were to take us over the Lowari Pass(3118m). After negotiating the many hair pin bends we reached Naghar for lunch in the gardens of the fort. Continuing up the Chitral River we reached Ayun for the night. The guest house has wonderful views of Tirich Mir(7690m)
Day 7 In the morning we had an interesting walk around Ayun before making our way up to the Kalash valley of Rumbur and the village of Balanguru. A short walk in the afternoon gave us an insight into the interesting sights of the next few days.
Day 8 We walked up the valley the next morning to the Nuristani village of Shakanande was delightful. The weather was glorious and the local people friendly. We spent some time with a Kalasha family high up on the hillside before retuning to Balanguru.
Day 9 A stiff walk was ahead of us to-day as we made our way up the mountain side to the Wild Frontiers Hideaway. This hut with two rooms and a verandah was to be our home for the night. A family near by cooked us our meal and we talked and danced before climbing into sleeping bags and sleeping on charpoys on the verandah.
Day 10 Back down the mountainside in the morning was easy and we then made our way to Chitral. We visited the historical Fort and spent time in the shops hunting for bargains.
Day 11 An easy day to-day before going to Chitral Gol to see the Markhor wild goats as they came down to the river to drink. The night was spent at the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel.
Day 12 After a late start we made our way up the Chitral Valley and across to Mastuj. In the evening we had an enjoyable meal with Col. Khushwalqlt Ul Mulk, son of the last great Mehtar.
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Day 13 To day we set off for the Shandur Pass and Phandur. The scenery is very dramatic as you approach the Pass at 3735m. The Polo Ground at the Pass is world famous for the festival once a year. We had lunch at the pass before continuing to Phandur. We went fishing and had a log fire in the evening.
Day 14 Early next morning we set off with our new jeeps for Gilgit and Karimabad. We stopped in Gilgit to visit the British Cemetery where a number of the key figures in the "Great Game" are remembered. We lunched looking up at Rakaposhi Mountain. Eagle's Nest Hotel was delightful.
Day 15 Up early to see the sun rise and then a walk down into Karimabad, back for lunch and then another walk in the afternoon.
Day 16 Again early morning sun rise photos before making our way to visit Balti Fort. We then drove back to Gilgit stopping on the way to search for Garnets. I left the group at Gilgit as they made their way on to Chilas for the night as their flight to Islamabad was cancelled.
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Deosai Plateau, Baltistan October 14th to October 25th 2006
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Day 1 I met my guide Taimor, my driver Jehanghi and cook Nizan at 9.30a.m. outside the Serena Hotel in Gilgit. We loaded the Jeep and set off for Skardu. Our route took us alongside the Indus River. Sometimes we were at the same level as the river and at then we would be 500ft above the river on a narrow rough track passing through a gorge. We stopped for lunch in a tea house. Before we reached Skardu (about another 32 km) we turned off to find our campsite at Katchura lake. When camping I would be in a tent in the grounds while the others found a room or rooms in a very simple hostel where they could sleep and cook. Often there was no electricity. The hostels we used had to be opened on arrival as we were the only travelers at this time of the year.
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Day 2 After a short walk beside the lake we left for Skardu. Here we stayed for a few hours as the jeep needed a new shock absorber. Then it was off to Hushe. The road follows the Indus to start before crossing and following the Shyok River to Khapulu and Saling. Then we were back on the rough tracks up the Hushe valley. At Machilu there is a fine khanqah -style Mosque. The road slowly got worse as we climbed up the valley. Approaching Hushe we had marvelous views of Masherbrum (7821m). From my tent I had excellent views of the mountains.
Day 3 Woke early to see the sun on Masherbrum, after overnight rain, then after breakfast started our walk up the Honboro Valley. This walk after crossing the Hushe river was over boulders and along a rough track climbing up and up at about 40 degrees! We walked up for over 2 hours before turning back. This was a very hard first walk.
Day 4 It was time to return to Skardu. Following the way up we made our way back to Skardu where I had lunch at the very pleasant K2 Motel (PTDC) while the jeep had a new leaf fitted to the Spring. Late afternoon we arrived at Sadpara Lake just south of Skardu. We camped close to this attractive lake for the night.
Day 5 Off early for one of the highlights of the trip. After a long drive up the valley past Sadpara village we finally reached the Deosai Plateau which is at an average height of over 4000m. After the check post and paying the entrance fee. The first foreigner for ten days and probably the last of the season. The landscape is amazing. The distance to the skyline is far and the terrain so barren and bleak (and cold!). At one of the bridges the wooden planks were broken and it was necessary to drive the jeep a short way across, remove planks from behind the jeep, place them in the gaps ahead, drive a little further and repeat this process several times. We stopped by beautiful Lake Sheosar for lunch and soon afterwards it began to snow. Before dropping down to Chilam we crossed the Chhachor Pass at 4230m. At Gurikot we turned off for Tarashing (2911m) for our next stop.
Day 6 From my tent this morning I had some excellent views of the Eastern Peak of Nanga Parbat. A lovely walk this morning took us over the lateral moraine of Tarashing Glacier before crossing the 'black glacier' and into the Rupal Valley. the walk was gently upwards passing through the two Rupal Villages and finishing at Herligkoffer Base Camp. While having lunch we saw an avalanche down the side of Nanga Parbat. Nothing big but interesting. By now the clouds were gathering and by the time we returned to Tarashing the cloud was lower. Another walk was planned for the next day but........
Day 7 Yes the clouds were very low the next morning with fresh snow on the mountains. The walk was cancelled and I decided to move on. Our route took us through Astor and back to the Karakoram Highway and down to Chilas. Yes Panorama Hotel and hot showers, a table to eat off and electricity. But only one night.
Day 8 Off early the next morning after checking that the Pass was open and a quick look at the rock carvings beside the road we started up the Thakgah Nala to the Babusar Pass. The 'road' quickly deteriorated as we climbed up the valley and reached the numerous zig-zags near the top of the pass. he road over the top was slippery with mud and ice but after over 3 hours we got there. And was it worth it, yes. The sky line view was one of endless snowy mountain peaks. After a quick lunch at 4175m we continued down the valley with many summer homesteads by the river, now deserted. The skies were clear and the views tremendous. Near Besal the road improved and we soon arrived in Naran. The original plan was to stay at the PTDC but the rest rooms were closed! So we moved to the Saiful Malik Hotel. As it faced straight onto the road I refused the tent and opted for a very shabby room, the loo having no running water and because of the earthquake no electricity. Oh and 30m from the Mosque, yes it was still Ramadan.
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Day 9 To-day we took the jeep up to Saiful Malik Lake (3215m). The walk around the lake was easy with good views of Malika Parbat.
Day 10 The walk up the valley from Naran was reasonably easy but entailed some steep paths. We walked past villages affected by the earthquake, past herds of sheep, goats and cattle. Always there were good views of the mountains and the river.
Day 11 A long drive to-day down the Kaghan valley. Although a good road existed just over a year ago the road now was rough with large cracks where part of the road had dropped several feet or boulders, the size of a small car had created huge holes in the road. Landslides were common and the route of the road had been diverted. There was some house damage from the earthquake of October 8th 2005 evidence but as we approached Balakot we saw several campsites where there were large numbers of tent shelters. There are few pictures as I felt it improper to intrude upon other people's misfortune. We eventually reached the KKH and continued to Islamabad.
Day 12 An early ride to the airport for the return flight London.
Summing up, the journey was very interesting and the scenery was very dramatic. The road journeys were often long and mostly on rough tracks. My tent was fine even if cold on some nights, the food very good if a bit repetitive and the accommodation very simple