Pakistan
Deosai Plateau, Baltistan This was a tailor made trip organised by Wild Frontiers following on from their Hindu Kush Expedition.
Deosai Plateau, Baltistan October 14th to October 25th 2006
Day 1 I met my guide Taimor, my driver Jehanghi and cook Nizan at 9.30 a.m. outside the Serena Hotel in Gilgit. We loaded the Jeep and set off for Skardu. Our route took us alongside the Indus River. Sometimes we were at the same level as the river and then we would be 500ft above the river on a narrow rough track passing through a gorge. We stopped for lunch in a tea house. Before we reached Skardu (about another 32 km) we turned off to find our campsite at Katchura lake. When camping I would be in a tent in the grounds while the others found a room or rooms in a very simple hostel where they could sleep and cook. Often there was no electricity. The hostels we used had to be opened on arrival as we were the only travelers at this time of the year.
Day 2 After a short walk beside the lake we left for Skardu. Here we stayed for a few hours as the jeep needed a new shock absorber. Then it was off to Hushe. The road follows the Indus to start before crossing and following the Shyok River to Khapulu and Saling. Then we were back on the rough tracks up the Hushe valley. At Machilu there is a fine khanqah -style Mosque. The road slowly got worse as we climbed up the valley. Approaching Hushe we had marvelous views of Masherbrum (7821m). From my tent I had excellent views of the mountains.
Day 3 Woke early to see the sun on Masherbrum, after overnight rain, then after breakfast started our walk up the Honboro Valley. This walk after crossing the Hushe river was over boulders and along a rough track climbing up and up at about 40 degrees! We walked up for over 2 hours before turning back. This was a very hard first walk.
Day 4 It was time to return to Skardu. Following the way up we made our way back to Skardu where I had lunch at the very pleasant K2 Motel (PTDC) while the jeep had a new leaf fitted to the Spring. Late afternoon we arrived at Sadpara Lake just south of Skardu. We camped close to this attractive lake for the night.
Day 5 Off early for one of the highlights of the trip. After a long drive up the valley past Sadpara village we finally reached the Deosai Plateau which is at an average height of over 4000m. After the check post and paying the entrance fee. The first foreigner for ten days and probably the last of the season. The landscape is amazing. The distance to the skyline is far and the terrain so barren and bleak (and cold!). At one of the bridges the wooden planks were broken and it was necessary to drive the jeep a short way across, remove planks from behind the jeep, place them in the gaps ahead, drive a little further and repeat this process several times. We stopped by beautiful Lake Sheosar for lunch and soon afterwards it began to snow. Before dropping down to Chilam we crossed the Chhachor Pass at 4230m. At Gurikot we turned off for Tarashing (2911m) for our next stop.
Day 6 From my tent this morning I had some excellent views of the Eastern Peak of Nanga Parbat. A lovely walk this morning took us over the lateral moraine of Tarashing Glacier before crossing the 'black glacier' and into the Rupal Valley. the walk was gently upwards passing through the two Rupal Villages and finishing at Herligkoffer Base Camp. While having lunch we saw an avalanche down the side of Nanga Parbat. Nothing big but interesting. By now the clouds were gathering and by the time we returned to Tarashing the cloud was lower. Another walk was planned for the next day but........
Day 7 Yes the clouds were very low the next morning with fresh snow on the mountains. The walk was cancelled and I decided to move on. Our route took us through Astor and back to the Karakoram Highway and down to Chilas. Yes Panorama Hotel and hot showers, a table to eat off and electricity. But only one night.
Day 8 Off early the next morning after checking that the Pass was open and a quick look at the rock carvings beside the road we started up the Thakgah Nala to the Babusar Pass. The 'road' quickly deteriorated as we climbed up the valley and reached the numerous zig-zags near the top of the pass. he road over the top was slippery with mud and ice but after over 3 hours we got there. And was it worth it, yes. The sky line view was one of endless snowy mountain peaks. After a quick lunch at 4175m we continued down the valley with many summer homesteads by the river, now deserted. The skies were clear and the views tremendous. Near Besal the road improved and we soon arrived in Naran. The original plan was to stay at the PTDC but the rest rooms were closed! So we moved to the Saiful Malik Hotel. As it faced straight onto the road I refused the tent and opted for a very shabby room, the loo having no running water and because of the earthquake no electricity. Oh and 30m from the Mosque, yes it was still Ramadan.
Day 9 To-day we took the jeep up to Saiful Malik Lake (3215m). The walk around the lake was easy with good views of Malika Parbat.
Day 10 The walk up the valley from Naran was reasonably easy but entailed some steep paths. We walked past villages affected by the earthquake, past herds of sheep, goats and cattle. Always there were good views of the mountains and the river.
Day 11 A long drive to-day down the Kaghan valley. Although a good road existed just over a year ago the road now was rough with large cracks where part of the road had dropped several feet or boulders, the size of a small car had created huge holes in the road. Landslides were common and the route of the road had been diverted. There was some house damage from the earthquake of October 8th 2005 evidence but as we approached Balakot we saw several campsites where there were large numbers of tent shelters. There are few pictures as I felt it improper to intrude upon other people's misfortune. We eventually reached the KKH and continued to Islamabad.
Day 12 An early ride to the airport for the return flight London.
Summing up, the journey was very interesting and the scenery was very dramatic. The road journeys were often long and mostly on rough tracks. My tent was fine even if cold on some nights, the food very good if a bit repetitive and the accommodation very simple